There have been hundreds of fashion shows throughout this past year, some good, some bad, and some simply outstanding. Here are my top ten runway shows of 2023…
Thom Browne Couture Fall 2023
Thom Browne presented his very first Haute Couture collection this summer and it was undoubtedly one of the best runway shows of 2023. Presented at the Opéra Garnier in Paris, the show brought the drama, as well as extraordinary fashion. Taking inspiration from a railway station, the stage was flooded with grey – a signature of the designer. If this was Thom’s debut into couture then I am excited to see what the future holds for the brand.
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Louis Vuitton Men’s SS24
All eyes were on Pharrell Williams this year as we eagerly awaited his first collection as the men’s Creative Director at Louis Vuitton. Joy is just one word that could be used to describe the show. You could feel the designer’s passion and creativity in every moment and in every piece. The accessories were a highlight, with updated iterations of the classic Speedy bag and signature monogrammed trunks.
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Coperni FW23
Possibly one of the most memorable runway shows of 2023 was Coperni FW23. Now, this is a brand whose past shows have literally broken the internet and it seems their innovative ideas keep coming. The show featured Boston Dynamic’s “Spot” robot dogs interacting with models who paraded around the show space. The inspiration behind the collection is Jean de la Fontaine’s fable, The Wolf and the Lamb. Sébastien Meyer and Arnaud Vaillant’s interpretation involves technology by envisioning a positive, utopian vision of the future. I have missed seeing performance at fashion shows, and so for that Coperni FW23 earns a place as one of the best runway shows of 2023.
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Schiaparelli Couture Fall 2023
Daniel Roseberry never misses, and this collection was no different. Entitled ‘And the artists’, this collection was heavily inspired by artists and their creative journey. The clothes were of course mesmerizing, a true work of art, but the craft-like accessories and exaggerated silhouettes stole the show. It is clear the levels of grueling effort that Roseberry and his atelier must put into each collection, but when the result is this beautiful, the effort pays off.
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Versace La Vacanza
If my Versace wish list wasn’t already excessive, then it certainly was after this show. Back in May, the iconic fashion house collaborated and co-designed the ‘La Vacanza’ collection with Dua Lipa which presented a full offering of vacation pieces. The setting was perfect and each look could not be faltered. Reminiscent of the 90s supermodel era, the pieces were inspired by Versace’s 1995 collection and included metallic miniskirts, butterfly motifs, and cowboy boots.
Bottega Veneta FW23
Bottega knows its consumer and this collection proves it. Focusing on simplicity, this show solidified the direction that Matthieu Blazy is taking the brand. The collection consisted of a comprehensive wardrobe, each and every piece is as wearable as the next. A perfect mixture of luxury and basics.
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Ferragamo SS24
There’s a reason why Maximilian Davis won British Womenswear Designer of the Year at this year’s Fashion Awards. Ferragamo’s SS24 collection is the epitome of elegance. The brand’s signature red was minimal throughout, with a more refined palette of black, white, and green. The collection is a great example of what young people actually want in fashion; great quality pieces that will last a lifetime.
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Alexander Mcqueen SS24
One of the more shocking pieces of fashion news this year was that Sarah Burton would be leaving Alexander McQueen after 26 years. The designer’s final collection, for SS24, was as impressive as those that came before. Inspired by “female anatomy, Queen Elizabeth I, the blood red rose, and Magdalena Abakanowicz,” the collection was quintessential McQueen. Dramatic prints, bold colours, and impressive tailoring were featured throughout. Naomi Campbell, who closed the show, spoke for us all as she wiped away a tear on the catwalk.
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Valentino Couture Fall 2023
Pierpaolo Piccioli understood the assignment. If you’re going to stage a couture fashion show then where better than a French chateau? Not only was the setting visually stunning, but the collection playfully challenged the idea of what a couture collection should be. The first look was a pair of jeans, or at least what appeared to be jeans. The piece was actually a masterfully crafted indigo-dyed beads that were embroidered together to create the appearance of jeans. As always the Valentino couture gowns were spectacular, and fit for any modern-day princess.
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Undercover SS24
For Undercover’s SS24 collection, the designer Jun Takahashi showcased his avant-garde craftsmanship. The most memorable was the final three looks, which featured mini organza dresses containing lights and live butterflies (which were released post-show). Takahashi created a dream-like fantasy in the middle of Paris Fashion Week in what is undeniably one of the best runway shows of 2023.