Copenhagen Fashion Week kicked off this week for SS25. From OpéraSport to Rolf Ekroth, here are all the highlights from the shows so far…
OpéraSport
OpéraSPORT’s Spring Summer 2025 Collection is inspired by the enchanting Exillion Garden, a hidden gem north of Copenhagen. The harmonious blend of nature’s beauty and architectural elegance that make up the private garden serves as the muse for their latest designs.
Classic architecture meets lush greenery, creating pieces that are both sophisticated and functional. Both co-founders, Awa Malina Stelter & Stephanie Gundelach have been particularly inspired by the exquisite flowers of the Exillion Garden, which are beautifully represented in their new quilt print and embroidery designs. The colour palette consists of vibrant floral colours – mars red, duberry, blue, white, black and parsnip.
This season, the brand offers a delightful mix of feminine elegance and practical fits, resulting in versatile styles that seamlessly transition from day to night. Their expanded range includes an array of dresses and swimwear, perfect for embracing the warmer months. Additionally, they’ve continued to expand their renowned seamless capsule, bestsellers from previous seasons, and unisex offerings, catering to a diverse audience.
Highlights of the collection include a 90s inspired stripe print in poplin sets and accessories, a sophisticated black quilted vegan leather jacket, a pocket expansion on the signature everyday Jerome bag, as well as new colorways of the brand’s beloved Shirley Bag. OpéraSPORT remains true to their DNA by exclusively using recycled or organic fabrics.
Photocredit: James Cochrane
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Rolf Ekroth
For SS25 Rolf Ekroth’s “Lavatanssit” collection, presented at Copenhagen Fashion Week, captures the enigmatic charm of traditional Finnish dance pavilions scattered across the Finnish countryside. This collection, inspired by the designer’s personal experiences, is a playful nod to longing—a love letter to summer nights spent at the dance pavilion. It dances with contrasts, reflecting the hope and fear of potential encounters.
The collection’s standout piece is a life vest top with romantic floral prints—a statement against Finland’s drowning statistics with life-saving functionality. Ekroth reimagines traditional dance attire with a contemporary edge, merging safety with dreamy, hand-painted floral prints and innovative silhouettes. Tailored suits offer a modern take on relaxed elegance with sleek lines and subtle details. Flowing dresses in airy fabrics, adorned with hand-painted floral prints, capture the romance of a lakeside dance.
The collection also features handmade lace collars and caps, a hand-knitted macramé bag, and dandelion jeans decorated with 250 handcrafted pendants—each pair’s pendants requiring over 200 hours to create. Similarly, the bombers are detailed with hand-knitted pendants, providing a distinctive touch of craftsmanship.
In collaboration with Kalevala, the renowned Finnish jewellery brand, Ekroth has translated his hand-painted rose motif into versatile earrings. Handcrafted from 100% recycled silver, these pieces continue the tradition of repurposing jewellery. The earrings feature a flexible clip, perfect for styling with various outfits, from tops to skirts to scarves. A showstopper in the collection is a dress embellished with 180 earrings. The rose motif, a staple in Ekroth’s collections, encourages seeing the world through rose-tinted glasses.
Photocredit: James Cochrane
Forza Collective
The SS25 collection from Forza Collective draws inspiration from an ongoing interplay between structure and softness. Founder and Creative Director Kristoffer Kongshaug has explored the 60’s and 70’s couture period and fused these themes with a 90’s minimalistic touch that aligns with Forza Collective’s vision.
The colour palette is strong and energetic, inspiring the viewer to engage. Danish actress Ellen Hillingsø and ballet dancer Cecilie Lassen are featured among the cast and embody the strength and energy that are synonymous with the Forza Collective woman, a woman who is not defined by age.
Key pieces include a corset in plated silver with deconstructed cups and chain straps made in collaboration with jewellery duo Räthel & Wolf from Berlin. Heavy satin dress with an amplified skirt constructed with godets, is applied only at the bust and skirt area with organic mesh surface decorations to highlight the waistline. Colour blocked draped jersey dress in mint green and cream.
Photocredit: James Cochrane
JOAO MARASCHIN
JOAO MARASCHIN presented “ROAD TRIP” collection for SS25 at Copenhagen Fashion Week. A collection that embodies a journey of personal and creative growth. Reflecting on experiences and inspirations gathered from a year of travel and exploration. The collection merges diverse elements, playing with new materials, refining familiar ones, and fostering both new and established partnerships.
Pieces were incorporated from the brands previous collection, symbolising a backpack from HOME brought on this road trip, combined with newly designed pieces found along the way. Many pieces were handmade, including a n oversized pullover in refined wool, handmade by artisans in Brazil. Handmade macramé and crochet pieces were seen throughout which is central to JOAO MARASCHIN’s identity. Blue was introduced into the collection, as well as the brands signature off-white, green, orange, and red.
Photocredit: James Cochrane
Lovechild 1979
The Lovechild 1979 collection for spring summer 2025 draws inspiration from the sculptures and abstract works of Eva Hesse. Infusing the precision of 1960s minimalism with a sense of creativity and experimentation, the collection embodies the dualities that define today’s contemporary workwear.
Hesse was renowned for her use of simple, industrial materials and her exploration of organic associations. Lovechild 1979 embraced this experimentation by integrating the essence of work uniforms and merging the raw with the refined. The tactile nature of Hesse’s materials is reflected in their fabric choices. From light blue cotton poplin and linen blend to sheer tencel and soft lamb leather to create a seamless transition from work to evening attire. The seasonal colour palette paints a light, tonal, and calm landscape with hues of wheat, vanilla, and green as well as a pale watercolour dip-dye print.
Knots and ropes are featured throughout, also inspired by Hesse’s work, that invite a tactile connection with each piece. Key fabrics such as a compact viscose and cotton silk evoke the transparency and fluidity of Hesse’s watercolours. While the use of innovative textile such as Naia acetate, produced from pine and eucalyptus wood, underscores the brands commitment to sustainable practices.
Photocredit: James Cochrane
Baum Und Pferdgarten
During Copenhagen Fashion Week, Baum und Pferdgarten’s presented their SS25 collection titled “Office Olympics.” The collection is a testament to the dynamic blend of office sophistication and sporty energy that defines the modern professional wardrobe. The inspiration for the collection comes from the summer of 2024, when sports dominated the scene, infiltrating every aspect of life. People left their offices to follow the games, and this vibrant energy is encapsulated in the collection.
Designed by creative directors Rikke Baumgarten and Helle Hestehave, “Office Olympics” reflects their commitment to merging the elegance of corporate wear with the dynamism of athletic aesthetics.
The collection introduces a versatile range of pieces that combine sporty elements with feminine details. Football-inspired shirts, sporty logos, and stripes are beautifully contrasted with light dresses and skirts, frills, and sequined pieces together with traditional office attire such as polo shirts, blazers, and cardigans, creating a harmonious blend of styles. The collection’s colour palette features refreshing pastel colours including light purple, blue, and green tones, together with brown and bold red accents and vibrant flower prints adding a lively touch, evoking a sense of optimism.
“Office Olympics” showcases tailored blazers, trousers, and skirts offering flexibility and comfort perfect for navigating a busy workday. The playful sporty elements add a modern edge to traditional office wear creating a versatile mix-and-match of separates, where pencil skirts are matched with sporty oversized T-shirts, encouraging personal creativity.
Photocredit: James Cochrane