London Fashion Week just celebrated its 40th anniversary with the fall winter 2024 shows and what a season it has been. Here are some of my highlights from the FW24 shows…
Simone Rocha
For her autumn winter 2024 collection, Simone Rocha presented The Wake, the third and final part of a triptych of shows revolving around the collaboration, which began with S/S24’s The Dress Rehearsal. Queen Victoria’s all-black mourning dresses were the inspiration for the collection, with the show being held in the sombre St Bartholomew parish church. Sheer dresses were seen throughout, with a touch of faux-fur. There was also plenty of expertly crafted embellished pieces and kitsch accessories.
Patrick McDowell
Patrick McDowell collaborated with Guildhall School of Music & Drama for their AW24 show. A collaboration the continues to bridge fashion, education, and culture. Music served as inspiration this season, reimagining the orchestra through a fashion lens. Details taken from the world of classical music were reimagined on blazers and capes. With the original Orpheus’ Ball musical score translated into dynamic prints.
“Growing up in Liverpool, a city steeped in rich musical history, I was nurtured by its cultural embrace. It became clear to me that music and fashion share a strong connection. Both are expressions of art, exuding drama, and carrying messages that resonate deeply” says McDowell in the shows notes.
Paul Costelloe
Paul Costelloe opened London Fashion Weeks 40th year with his autumn winter collection titled, ‘Once upon a Time’. The collection was inspired by the buzzing, eccentric, and exciting Lower East Side which was very much evident through the taxi-cab imbued print that was adorned on silk shirts, two-piece sets, and trousers. Leather jodhpurs worn with tweed statement plaids, voluminous shapes in traditional wool knitwear and coats to shelter under were all standout designs.
FROLOV
FROLOV is fast becoming a favourite at London Fashion Week and this season the collection was an ode to the designer’s eclectic and very personal childhood memories from the Crimea. This collection moved away from the heart motif that the brand is known for, yet the pieces remained romantic and sexy. A plethora of corsets, sheer fabrics and miniskirts were seen throughout. The colour palette was dark and moody and featured red laces, leather, and feather elements on gowns and accessories.