For the Marni Fall Winter 2024 collection, Creative Director Francesco Risso explained in the show notes that “as a child, I had no aspirations of becoming a designer.” A shocking statement for someone so clearly destined for that profession, but it does perhaps explain the thought process behind the collection. For this season, Marni has forbidden any images or references from seeping into their design process, returning to a method of design that comes naturally.
The only reference that was used was a quote by Virginia Woolf, “If by chance you enter a paper cave, bring no clothes.” Though not to be taken literally, the quote explores that idea of shedding all outside influences. RIsso invites his guests to leave everything behind at the door and watch the show unaffected by other influences.
The collection was presented in a cave-like tunnel under Milan’s Stazione Centrale and included conservative designs in a largely neutral colour palette. The first part of the collection featured simplistic looks in black and brown. Showcasing the designers need to strip the designs back to their core.
That is until the final few looks where a burst of colour and print was seen on accentuated cone-shaped silhouettes and sculptural dresses and coats. Bold animal print was featured heavily, showing that the mob-wife aesthetic trend is going nowhere.