Header Image Credit: Corey Tenfold
Thom Browne presented his first Haute Couture collection during Paris Fashion Week for Fall/Winter 2023. The show was presented at the Opéra Garnier, and like the many theatrical shows staged there before, Thom Browne brought the drama.
Guests were greeted by 2000 identical two-dimensional spectators suited in Thom Browne’s staple grey uniform. The first garment Browne ever created in 2003. The audience was seated on the stage, looking out to the auditorium of cut-outs. The show was set to “Fade to Grey” by Visage, which set the tone for the collection.
Alek Welk took to the stage first. Walking up wearing the label’s classic grey jacket and kilt combination. Sitting atop a pile of grey luggage, on the imaginary train platform, is where Alek remained for the rest of the show whilst the rest of the collection was shown around her.
The show took inspiration from a busy railway station. Some models were dressed as passengers in sequin tartan skirt suits carrying enlarged Hector bags. Two models represented gargoyles, wearing sequin-encrusted dresses with a camisole overlay. Of course, no railway station would be complete without a couple of pigeons. Though, I am sure none are as impeccably dressed as Browne’s in embroidered turtle neck mini dresses and silk cotton feathers.
READ MORE: Highlights From The Cruise 2024 Shows
As is customary in couture, the final look of the collection was shown with the arrival of the season’s bride. This role went to the model Grace Elizabeth who closed the show in a sheer tailored gown with an elongated train and clutch to match.
Thom Browne brought the idea of American sensibility to Paris couture. His debut show has been a highlight of the season so far and I am looking forward to what is to come for Thom Browne Couture.