Erdem is always one collection I look forward to the most at London Fashion Week, and AW25 was no different. Here is everything to know about the Erdem Autumn/Winter 2025 collection…

The Inspiration

For Autumn/Winter 2025, Erdem Moralioglu finds inspiration in a deeply personal artistic collaboration with contemporary painter Kaye Donachie. The two were classmates at the Royal College of Art, but their creative partnership was sparked years later when Erdem commissioned Kaye to paint a portrait of his late mother. Struck by Donachie’s unique approach—where her portraits transcend literal representation to become abstract moods and evocative sensations—Erdem infused his latest collection with a similar sense of poetic expression.

Donachie’s work explores the tension between reality and imagination, creating what she calls ‘auras’ rather than conventional depictions. She refers to faces as sensations and pigment as emotional shadow, crafting portraits that feel like lingering echoes of lives once lived. Inspired by this, Erdem channels the idea of a imaginary dialogue between artist and subject into his designs, bringing an ethereal, dreamlike quality to the collection.

The Collection

Kaye’s portraits were featured throughout the collection – on dresses, skirts, and bags – all in a soft and romantic colour palette of blues, greys, and nudes. The inspiration of the feminine silhouette was clearly evident in full skirts, strong shoulders, and flowing gowns.

Floral applique threadwork was added to coats and dresses while rose prints adorned jackets, and skirts.

The Best Looks

The Erdem AW25 collection takes Donachie’s spectral and emotive aesthetic and translates it into a series of striking silhouettes. Archetypal feminine forms are reimagined with modern artistry, allowing the garments to feel both timeless and contemporary. Some standout looks include a fitted canvas bodice, hand-painted by Kaye worn with sculpted pencil skirt in glossed black spike sequin and a tweed, peplum jacket with exposed seams worn with a matching sculpted full skirt.

A sculpted strapless mid-length dress with hand-frayed ribbon work and a skeletal column corset dress in technical organza with portrait print by Kaye Donachie.

The FROW

The show was attended by Lily James, Hayley Atwell, Keeley Hawes, Laura Bailey, Beth Ditto, and Ramla Ali.

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