Copenhagen Fashion Week returned last week with the latest runway offerings for the SS27 season. A season that celebrates two decades of the Danish capital’s rise as a fashion capital. Known for leading the charge when it comes to sustainability, producing some of the best street style around and now unofficially being named as the fifth major fashion week, Copenhagen is a force to be reckoned with.
This season saw more than 34 runway shows and presentations from some of Scandinavia’s most esteemed designers such as OpéraSPORT and Baum und Pferdgarten, as well as new faces including Renè and Taus.
Read on for my favourite shows from Copenhagen Fashion Week SS27.
By Malene Birger
For the first time in six years, By Malene Birger returned to the runway for the SS27 season at Copenhagen Fashion Week. The show reflects a renewed relationship with Copenhagen, a return to the heritage that has shaped the house since its founding, and was presented at creative director Emilie Martinsen-Kønigsfeldt’s home.
The sun serves as both muse and metaphor throughout the collection. A symbol of optimism and renewal and shown through a colour palette that transitioned from soft, daytime neutrals to golden-hour tans before finishing with midnight blacks. Silhouettes were minimal, with fluid dresses becoming the standout. Though they were countered nicely with relaxed tailoring and denim jeans you’d be happy to spend all day in.
Institution
Creative Director Galib Gassanoff dressed models in mostly hand-crafted garments that took inspiration from his home in Azerbeijan. Designs are crafted from natural fibres, including wool and silk, and sourced from deadstock of high-end Italian producers. The looks represent an evolution of human forms and consist of voluminous, sculptural silhouettes in a neutral colour palette.
Munthe
“As art remains at the heart of MUNTHE, this season I drew inspiration from the world of a master artist and her atelier – a space where creativity, craftsmanship, and imagination come together,” explains Naja Munthe, Creative Director and Founder of MUNTHE.
The collection for Spring Summer 2027 explores a balance between masculine and feminine dressing. Sharp tailoring is combined with soft silhouettes. Ruffled dresses are paired with workwear-inspired trousers, overalls, and denim. Delicate crochet lace tops with structured jackets and ties. The colour palette draws inspiration from the artist’s atelier, featuring shades of blue, lemon, cream, dark petrol green, and rich chocolate tones.
Stine Goya
Presented at Terminal 13, STINE GOYA returns to the official Copenhagen Fashion Week calendar after two years away. Expressionism served as a starting point for the collection, where emotive landscapes are translated into woven jacquards. Painterly florals are dismantled into new compositions and reconstructed across linen, denim and intricate beadwork, appearing as prints, embroidery and fully beaded surfaces.
OpéraSPORT
OpéraSPORT’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection, Growth, is inspired by Carl Jacobsen’s Garden, a space where nature, symbolism, and architecture exist in quiet balance. The collection explores themes of continuity, repetition, and renewal, where forms evolve, return, and transform over time. This becomes a subtle foundation for the collection: a study of garments in constant transformation.
SS27 interprets this landscape through sculptural silhouettes balanced with fluid draping. Structured tailoring contrasts with soft, body-following fabrics, while seamless rib pieces are engineered to move with the body, creating a sense of ease and continuity. The colour palette reflects the tones of the garden: soft greens, pale floral hues inspired by rhododendrons, and muted neutrals, contrasted by deeper earth tones and sharper accents reminiscent of thistle stems.
True to the brand’s DNA, OpéraSPORT continues to work with recycled and organic materials.