Milan Fashion Week is back for the Spring Summer 2025 shows. This season 57 designers will hold a live catwalk to showcase their latest collections. Some of Italy’s most beloved labels will present including; Gucci, Versace, Prada, Dolce & Gabanna, Bottega Venetta, Max Mara, and Tod’s.
Interestingly, Giorgio Armani will not be showing his line, having chosen to present his womenswear collection in New York on October 17. His mid-level Emporio Armani line, however, will get two shows in Milan.
Here is your roundup of the best collections from Milan Fashion Week Spring Summer 2025, updated as and when the collections unfold…
Max Mara
Max Mara opened the third day of Milan Fashion Week with a collection inspired by Hypatia of Alexandria, a 4th-century mathematician and philosopher. The result was a timeless collection that stayed true to the Max Mara brand. There was not a single piece in the collection that would not be welcome in the wardrobes of any minimalist.
Much of Hypatia’s work was developed from Pythagoras. Those equations, expressed as diagrammatic triangles, are like the simple arrows that the dressmaker uses to transform a flat sheet into a three-dimensional living structure. So often disguised or camouflaged, in Max Mara’s SS25 collection they are proudly proclaimed. In box-fresh cottons, they are stitched through externally, lending Max Mara’s tailoring and trench coats a trigonometric turn.
Columnar knitted skirts and dresses with contour clinging ribs offer a hint of the high priestess. Inspired by Hypatia’s work on slicing through cones at different angles, mathematically plotted elliptical coulisses engender intriguing constructions revealing a segment of the abdomen, a sliver of shoulder, or a whole back. The sleek silhouette hinges on jackets with a new shoulder shape; sharp, square and narrow. Even the modest poplin shirt has been elevated to a design a statement through detailed technical construction.
In colours borrowed from the phials in the lab; crystalline white, copper oxide as black as brown can be, deep delphinium blue and silver nitrate, Max Mara buzzes with cool, magical chemistry.
Images Courtesy of Max Mara
Emporio Armani
For Spring Summer 2025 Armani once again proves his commitment to coherent style. The tie is a prominent symbol throughout the collection. Once worn by woman as a declaration of gender equality, now a playful trend.
The narrative is driven by the balance of masculine and feminine. Soft jackets with natural shoulders, flowing trousers and riding breeches, blousons, parkas, and trench coats. All of which alternate with small dresses with wrap-around draping, long skirts, and ultra-light dresses. Materials with a matte finish – silk, linen, and cotton in a natural colour palette with iridescent pink, sage, and light grey.
Images Courtesy of Emporio Armani
Santoni
This season, Santoni’s Spring Summer 2025 collection, showcased as a presentation during Milan Fashion Week, replays summer memories of the golden Italian coastline. The craftsmanship that underpins every Santoni product takes on new forms for this collection and the greatest expression of this is brought to life in Serpentine, a collection of elegant and refined shoes of all heights. Highlights include the Sibille, the essential décolleté and slingback, that is expressed for SS25 in soft leather and suede in bright shades that delicately dress the foot. Further embellished with a ton-sur-ton Double Buckle hardware.
Bags have been reinterpreted with new colours, fine materials and proportions. Adorning this season’s bags, the Vela graphic is a true tribute to the territory, brilliantly depicting the dramatic rocks that dot the Le Marche coastline. Santoni’s ThePluto Soft embodies a playful sophistication and modern glamour and is presented in a versatile new larger size.
Images Courtesy of Santoni
Fendi
The roaring 20s are back if Fendi’s Spring Summer 2025 collection is anything to go by. In a glamorous opening to Milan Fashion Week, Kim Jones’ collection celebrates 100 years of the Italian luxury brand focusing on “movement, lightness, excellence and ease.” Dropped waists and sheer organzas were seen heavily throughout – both styles that were clearly inspired by the 1920’s and The Great Gatsby in particular.
The colour palettes denotes a strong sense of femininity with tones of blush pink and stone. Only emphasised by the minimalist, yet transparent dresses that made the model’s bodies the focal point of the look.
Images Courtesy of Fendi
More Fashion Week:
London Fashion Week Spring Summer 2025 Highlights
New York Fashion Week SS25 Highlights
SS24 Runway Looks You Can Replicate
Tod’s
Tod’s is celebrating Artisanal Intelligence this season. Reminding us that, beyond any innovation, behind every product lies the knowledge and hands of its creator. A belief that has always been essential to Tod’s. The collection was presented at Fonderia Carlo Macchi and the runway was decorated by two sculptural hands, the work of artist Lorenzo Quinn, that symbolises craftsmanship excellence and Italian know-how.
Creative Director Matteo Tamburini presents a collection inspired by a journey along the Mediterranean coast, where tradition meets discreet luxury and functionality, emblems of the Italian lifestyle. Premium materials and sophisticated craftsmanship create a relaxed wardrobe in shapes and volumes that embody timeless elegance, accompanying the Tod’s woman in her daily life. Collection highlights include the iconic trench coat, in cotton and in leather, suit pairings of a cropped jacket with slim trousers in different shades, and the iconic Gommino shoe.
Images Courtesy of Tod’s
Calcaterra
Daniele Calcaterra was inspired this season by the natural elements – fire, water, air, earth. They are what define the shapes, volume and colour palette, from an intense red to the most ethereal white. The natural element crosses the whole collection, in a transversal reading of textile and colour: organza silk, cold dyed cottons and fil coupé mimic the vital movements of leaves in a breeze or the intense colours of a sunset, just like the blood red dress, made light by a cascade of hand-woven silk chiffon fringes which becomes one of the recurring motifs of the season.
The theme of lightness, a breeze that carresses the cheek, runs across the whole collection, through volumes that become more enveloping and protective, designing a new ecosystem that seeks, as always in the aesthetics of Calcaterra, to be reborn by moving away from the everyday life of our time. This is how trousers also lose their tailoring, abandoning pockets and seams to transform into a natural drape – reminiscent of the first Josephine Baker – through fabrics that seem to arise on the body, like a wave.
Images Courtesy of Calcaterra
Ferrari
The Ferrari Spring Summer collection is an intimate reflection, a physical space that captures the essence of the Ferrari wardrobe, highlighting its exclusive identity and signature features. The collections embodies the codes and foundations of Ferrari’s lexicon: the blazer, trousers, bomber jacket, and pencil skirt come to life through a sequential process of dressing and layering, where shapes and fabrics take on meaning and context, viewed through the lens of beauty and uniqueness, and reinterpreted through the distinctive influences and crossovers of Ferrari style.
Creative director Rocco Iannone delves into the precise proportions, flowing lines, colour schemes, and the feelings of power and sensuality inherent within the Ferrari universe, bringing these elements to the forefront of a more emotional, warm, and immersive experience. Each individual part—such as the shoulders, waistline, and hems— are constructed and deconstructed until it achieves a maximum expression of lightness and fluidity. The colour palette centers on red, transitioning to shades like tobacco, leather, terracotta, and ivory
Images Courtesy of Ferrari