Best of Milan Fashion Week SS26: Runway Roundup

Milan Fashion Week SS26 is in full swing and proving once again why the city is at the heart of global fashion. This season will see opening collections from  Louise Trotter at Bottega Veneta, Simone Bellotti at Jil Sander and Dario Vitale at Versace. Demna has unveiled his first collection as Creative Director of Gucci, not as a traditional fashion show but at an intimate screening of ‘The Tiger’, a film by Spike Jonze and Halina Reijn. Comparisons have already been drawn to the beloved Tom Ford at Gucci era and the designers innovative presentation method has seen high acclaim. If this is the start of Demna’s era at Gucci, I am already excited for what is to come.

This season will also be a poignant one, with the Giorgio Armani show on Sunday set to pay tribute to the late designer, who passed away earlier this month, aged 91. Other must-see moments include a Milan Fashion Week debut from London-based label KNWLS, as well as collections from the cities top brands including Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Fendi and Missoni.

Read on for daily updates of the highlights of Milan Fashion Week SS26…

Giorgio Armani

Images Courtesy of Giorgio Armani

Spring/Summer 2026 for Giorgio Armani carries immense poignancy, marking the final collection the legendary designer worked on personally. Staged at the Pinacoteca di Brera, in the very neighborhood where Armani lived and worked, the show unfolds as both a tribute and a farewell. The collection draws inspiration from two of his beloved places: Milan, the city of modernity and work, and Pantelleria, the wild Mediterranean island of volcanic rocks and endless blue sea. With flowing fabrics, elongated silhouettes, and a palette shifting from organic neutrals to deep oceanic blues, the pieces encapsulate Armani’s timeless touch. To honor his legacy, models long associated with the house walked once more, embodying his enduring vision of womanhood.

Versace

Images Courtesy of Versace

Spring/Summer 2026 was a big one for Versace. The first collection with Dario Vitale at the helm, and the first time a non-Versace family member has acted as Creative Director. This collection flirts with the brand’s love of maximalism, and pays homage to Gianni with 80s, Miami-inspired designs. But one thing is for certain, this will be a new era for Versace. Gone is the iconic Medusa print, in its place, a plethora of colour-blocking and sharp tailoring. There were hand-beaded bras, ballooned leather jackets and pastel slip dresses, all signaling Vitale’s bold vision to reimagine Versace’s legacy for a new generation.

SUNNEI

Images Courtesy of SUNNEI

SUNNEI SS26 unfolded as an audacious performance rather than a traditional runway, transforming Milan Fashion Week into an imaginary auction in collaboration with Christie’s. In a surreal, theatre-like setting, nothing was actually for sale, yet the atmosphere pulsed with the allure of bidding, blurring the boundaries between fashion, art, and commerce. Members of the brand’s own community modeled the collection as living characters, each bringing singular personality to the pieces and erasing the divide between audience and spectacle. With its wry meditation on desire, value, and the hidden mechanics of the industry, SUNNEI delivered a conceptual highlight of the season.

Sportmax

Images Courtesy of Sportmax

Presented in the historic Frigoriferi Milanesi, Sportmax SS26 explored a poetic tension between preservation and reinvention. Inspired by an antique telescope awaiting restoration, the collection invited new perspectives with dreamlike yet practical designs. Fluid organza appeared in sheer trench coats, weightless linings, and structured trousers, while doublé wool and soft glove leather grounded the airy silhouettes.  Botanical patterns, conceived from drawings painted with Japanese cosmetics layered into optical illusions, and hand-moulded leather flowers blossomed into sculptural halter tops. Architectural cuts and strategic openings revealed flashes of skin, complemented by kitten-heel mules and soft S-hardware bags.

Roberto Cavalli

Images Courtesy of Roberto Cavalli

Roberto Cavalli’s SS26 “Gold Obsession” shimmered with glamour and femininity. Creative Director Fausto Puglisi embraced gold not just as a colour but as a radiant attitude, celebrating strong, multifaceted women from Elizabeth Taylor’s Cleopatra to Jane Birkin. Fil coupé, devoré, liquid jersey, and jacquards formed fluid gowns and intricately detailed couture-like pieces, while experimental denim – bell-bottomed and low-waisted -added a rebellious edge. Cavalli’s iconic serpent motif wound through accessories, from coiled-heel sandals to piercing-effect bags and glittering jewellery.

Emporio Armani

Images Courtesy of Emporio Armani

Emporio Armani’s SS26 collection, titled Ritorni, carried an unmistakable poignancy following Giorgio Armani’s passing just weeks ago. The show felt like a graceful homecoming, capturing the fleeting sensations of returning to the city after travel. Light, elongated silhouettes in mineral greys and neutral tones embodied the house’s quiet elegance, while ikat fabrics, kimono fastenings, obi belts, and raffia caps infused a nomadic spirit. Waistcoats appeared in multiple variations, anchoring fluid tailoring and ethereal nylon eveningwear. Balancing masculine and feminine codes, the collection served as a moving tribute to Armani’s legacy—timeless, multicultural, and effortlessly refined.

Max Mara

Images Courtesy of Max Mara

Max Mara’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection finds power in playfulness, drawing inspiration from the opulent spirit of Rococo and its muse, Madame de Pompadour. Impeccable tailoring meets extravagant flourishes: a sharp trench coat crowned with sculpted shoulder folds, pencil skirts edged by gauzy crests, and organza skirts built from hundreds of petal-like pieces. Whisper-light hues echo 18th-century salons while black harness belts and sleek trousers anchor the looks in modern pragmatism. Celebrating Pompadour’s rebellious elegance and patronage of the arts, Max Mara blends whimsical asymmetry with contemporary precision, revealing strength and individuality in every exquisite, punk-tinged detail.

Fendi

Images Courtesy of Fendi

Fendi’s Spring/Summer 2026 show envisioned a luminous future summer where everyday wear was balanced with couture-level detailing. Silvia Venturini Fendi explored “melodious geometries of color,” pairing featherweight tailoring with vibrant optical effects in a kaleidoscopic set by Marc Newson. Softly structured blazers, sheer jacquards, and crochet polos floated in juicy shades of turquoise, coral, and sunny yellow, while floral embroideries and playful buttonhole tabs added a wink of romance. Accessories were a standout as they dazzled with 3D embellishments and charms. Ruched Collier handbags, cable-knit Baguettes, and transparent Peekaboos captured the collection’s floral spirit. A bespoke soundtrack by Frederic Sanchez, sampling iconic Italian cinema, underscored the show’s playful, multigenerational celebration of colour and craft.

Read more Fashion Week coverage here.
Featured Image Courtesy of Roberto Cavalli

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