​Courtesy of Carolina Herrera

New York Fashion Week SS27 celebrates another big birthday, with Carolina Herrera marking its 45th anniversary. “Forty-five years gives you an extraordinary heritage to work with,” says Creative Director Wes Gordon. “This collection is about taking everything we love about Herrera and asking what it looks like today.

The collection is influenced by the world that Herrera built in 1981, bringing the famed “swans’ of New York – C.Z. Guest, Diana Vreeland, and Lee Radziwill into the present day. Pieces move from constructed daywear to evening designs that reflect the idea of a modern woman constantly on the move. Elongated jackets, sweeping A-line skirts, and chiffon knits ground the collection in daywear. Sweeping organza gowns and metallic lace transition the collection to night. The house’s signature polka dots run throughout the collection along with a colour palette of red, yellow, pink and green.

Khaite

​Courtesy of Khaite

For SS27, Khaite Creative Director Catherine Holstein considers romance through the lens of Venice. This romanticism takes shape through heightened proportions and a palette of brass, cream, and celadon. Movement is created through volume, shown in skirts with sculptural frills and ruffled hems. While lingerie-inspired elements introduce intimacy. Kaia Gerber opened the show in a sculptural bra and contrasting high-waisted black leather skirt that reflects the tension between delicacy and strength, intimacy and restraint. Dark femininity featured in multiple looks, through sheer tulle, applique 3D flowers, and corsetry that was juxtaposed again by Khaite signatures such as the leather jacket that came in both shrunken and oversized variations.

Tory Burch

​Courtesy of Tory Burch

Opulent femininity meets American pragmatism for Tory Burch Spring/Summer 2027. The collection explores how women get dressed through beauty, utility, and humour – seen through athletic knits, hip-sling skirts, drawstring trousers, and patch pocket shirts. Texture proved to be the biggest interest of the collection, from menswear wools lightened with silk, wallpaper jacquard, chenille ‘terrycloth’ and a glazed crepe de chine. Each texture was complemented against a colour palette of coral, turquoise, violet, mint, vermillion and butter yellow before being finished with more is more metallic embroideries and handmade feathers.

LII

​Courtesy of LII

LII looks to the 1960s for SS27 through a nostalgic lens. Codes of youth, proprietorship, and romance are filtered through surreal colours, touches of vinyl, mini-dresses, and spongy fabrics. The designs act as bold relics of a time that offer a childlike optimism much needed for today. Familiar LII silhouettes appear throughout. Anoraks are reconceived as detachable hoods, affixed to camisoles and dresses rather than collars. T-shirts are layered and spliced – both covering and exposing the body at once. Architecture and volume are created through square panels in cocktail dresses that seem to float atop the body, adding sculpture and colourblocking to skirts.

FForme

​​Courtesy of FFORME

For Spring/Summer 2027, FFORME reclaims the rebellion that defined American sportswear. Inspired by the bricolage of Judy Blame, hardware is repurposed as adornments – tiny perfume bottles, silver box clutches, lures, tackle, and signet rings strung into chains. Shirts, jeans, and coats are reduced to their essence and recast through precision cutting. Lengths are shorter this season. V-necklines are styled with bandage bandeaus while crisp shirting pairs with hand-tailored trousers. Fit-for-purpose workwear in Japanese indigo denim is sliced with nappa leather and belted; linen dresses expose slices of skin.

Brandon Maxwell

​Courtesy of Brandon Maxwell

Ideas from the past find their place again at Brandon Maxwell. Core elements dating back to his first collection acted as starting points for SS27. Pants are styled slightly undone, revealing an inset cummerbund that helps to create different volumes around the body. Masculine construction is infused into feminine silhouettes. There are subtle nods to American sportswear seen in a sable suit jacket with cuts under the lapel ideal for sliding sweaters and scarves through. Lamb leather jackets are finished with the box pleat of a men’s shirt, while denim is intentionally constructed to easily tie. The colour palette consists largely of neutrals, with scarlet red and pale yellow scattered on pleated trousers and nappa perforated coats.

Proenza Schouler

​Courtesy of Proenza Schouler

For spring/summer 2027, which marks her second runway as creative director at Proenza Schouler, Rachel Scott looked to the women of New York for inspiration. The house’s signature silhouettes were reimagined with movement in mind. Designed for busy New York women as they navigate the city. Hips are curved, and shoulder pads are sharp, yet never exaggerated. Tiger and leopard print garments were a highlight, featuring across different textures, from plissé silk to hand-knitted pieces, or finished with sequins.

Tommy Hilfiger

Courtesy of Tommy Hilfiger

The Plaza Hotel acted as the ultimate backdrop to Tommy Hilfiger’s Spring 2027 collection. The collection was classic Tommy Hilfiger prep, yet modernized through proportion, colour and fabrication. The brand’s signature red, white and blue was refreshed alongside hints of yellow and green. Heritage pieces such as rugby dresses and Oxford shirts were given new life in prints and patterns. And the iconic Tommy flag appeared faded and washed across suede and silk-cashmere fabrics and oversized totes.

The star-studded show was attended by Kate Moss, Camila Cabello, and JISOO, who was treated to a surprise performance by Slayyyter – continuing the brand’s legacy of bringing culture-shaping artists to the runway. The star power didn’t end there, with Gigi Hadid and Romeo Beckham opening and closing the show, respectively.