Summer may be over, but that can only mean one thing: fashion week is back! New York Fashion Week, as always, kicks us off, this time with the latest offerings for SS27. Coach, Ralph Lauren, and Cult Gaia will open the season, with Coach celebrating its 85th anniversary.
Following on with the rest of the schedule, we will see Henry Zankov’s debut as creative director at Diane von Furstenberg, which will be the first time in nine years that the brand has shown on schedule at NYFW. Michael Kors, Calvin Klein, Tommy Hilfiger, Proenza Schouler and Tory Burch will also show their latest collections.
Read on for all of the highlights of the New York Fashion Week SS27 season, updated daily.
Tommy Hilfiger
Courtesy of Tommy Hilfiger
The Plaza Hotel acted as the ultimate backdrop to Tommy Hilfiger’s Spring 2027 collection. The collection was classic Tommy Hilfiger prep, yet modernized through proportion, colour and fabrication. The brand’s signature red, white and blue was refreshed alongside hints of yellow and green. Heritage pieces such as rugby dresses and Oxford shirts were given new life in prints and patterns. And the iconic Tommy flag appeared faded and washed across suede and silk-cashmere fabrics and oversized totes.
The star-studded show was attended by Kate Moss, Camila Cabello, and JISOO, who was treated to a surprise performance by Slayyyter – continuing the brand’s legacy of bringing culture-shaping artists to the runway. The star power didn’t end there, with Gigi Hadid and Romeo Beckham opening and closing the show, respectively.
Cult Gaia
Courtesy of Cult Gaia
At the Gilder Center in New York City, Jasmin Larian Hekmat unveiled Cult Gaia’s Spring 2027 collection, titled ‘Behest,’ which translates to ‘heaven’ in Persian. The collection explores the idea that beauty emerges from hardship and was inspired by the designer’s grandmother, whose passing informs the collection.
Opening with darker, earthy tones before moving into green, blue, red, and pink mirrors the movement from mourning towards renewal and a garden in bloom. Delicate, fluid elements are mixed with structured forms, including the signature Chintz plissé that is reimagined through architectural basketweaves. Structured cotton is contrasted with silk jacquards and rustic knits, while airy silks are frayed and fringed. Unyielding materials continue to transform into fluid forms, reinforcing the idea that beauty and life can emerge from difficult places.
Coach
Courtesy of Coach
Coach kicks off New York Fashion Week SS27 with a party to celebrate 85 years of the house. “For Coach’s 85th anniversary, I was thinking about memory and the way familiar things change as we live with them,” said Coach Creative Director Stuart Vevers. “I didn’t want to make a retrospective. We turned familiar Coach ideas inside out, exposed their construction, softened them and left traces of a celebration on them. Having 85 years behind us gives us the confidence to look forward.”
The collection draws on archetypes that have shaped Vever’s vision for Coach, including leather jackets, tuxedos, bias-cut dresses and Western boots. Trench coats with inside-out constructions reveal inner linings while others are made from garment-dyed, sun-faded heavyweight jersey. Slim tailoring features clean shoulders, narrow sleeves and trousers that pool at the ankles for a classic look. Bias-cut dresses are featured heavily in the collection, appearing in repurposed garment-printed lining fabrics, overdyed georgette, repurposed denim, lamé and sequins.
The palette begins with dove gray, soft brown, black, white and natural leather tones before moving into periwinkle, powder pink, mint and reflective metallic finishes. Vevers was clearly thinking of a celebration when designing this collection. Leather is rubbed with gold and silver metallic foil, confetti is worked into the surfaces of bags and shoes, and glitter is mixed with red nail polish to create cracked, hand-finished effects. Not to mention sequins, crowns, pointed hats, and birthday cards recreated in leather. The new Turnlock Tote is the handbag highlight of this season. Inspired by a Coach design from 1970, the bag features turnlock hardware that was introduced by the house’s first lead designer, Bonnie Cashin.
Read more Fashion Week coverage here.