Stepping into a role shaped by decades of legacy is no small task. For Leo Dell’Orco, presenting his first mens collection for Giorgio Armani FW26 comes with particular weight. After more than forty years working closely alongside Armani, Dell’Orco’s debut is one informed by deep familiarity and personal responsibility following Giorgio Armani’s death in September 2025.
Having served as Head of Menswear across both Giorgio Armani and Emporio Armani since 1975, Dell’Orco is no outsider. His understanding of the house codes, its quiet elegance, fluid tailoring and understated modernity runs instinctively deep. The challenge, then, was not to reinvent Armani menswear, but to honour its founder while ensuring the brand continues to feel relevant and forward-looking.
Titled Cangiante, meaning iridescent in Italian, the FW26 collection reflected a nuanced approach and signals a menswear vision that evolves gently rather than announces itself loudly. In his debut, Dell’Orco proved that continuity, when handled with confidence, can be just as powerful as change.
The Inspiration
Cangiante describes something that remains entirely itself, yet changes depending on your perspective – whether an idea, a sign or a blend of colours. This metaphor lends itself naturally to the Giorgio Armani style today. A style defined by a creative coherence that catches the light in new ways, allowing the eye to perceive something in constant transformation, while preserving its hallmark.
The Collection
The Giorgio Armani mens FW26 collection included daywear and eveningwear, with Dell’Orco sticking to the brand’s signature colour palette of greys, beiges, neutrals, blacks and deep blues. Except for welcome accents of olive green, amethyst purple and lapis blue that stood out without overwhelming. The tones were further brought to life through silky, iridescent materials such as velvet, crêpe and chenille that were blended with brushed cashmeres, felted wools and leathers.
Silhouettes again stayed true to the house codes with fluid, relaxed volumes. Blousons, low-buttoned jackets, enveloping coats, shirts with or without collars, and wide trousers fell over suede shoes and boots. Winterwear was too imbued with the same idea of easy elegance and velvety shimmer. Everything moves with the body, never constraining it.
Accessories for the collection include generous totes and crossbody bags, belts with graphic hardware, wide-brimmed hats and understated eyewear.
Best Looks
Soft and textural knitwear is an integral element of the collection. This includes a geometric jacquard cardigan, interpreted for both men and women and was created in collaboration with artisanal Milanese knitwear brand Alanui.
There was a distinctive harmony from the contrasts between shiny and matte. Shearling coats with a velvet-like hand and silk that mimics the look of denim.
The FROW
As always, Giorgio Armani came through with a star-studded front row, including Hudson Williams, Ricky Martin, Ed Westwick, and Tom Blyth.
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All imagery courtesy of Giorgio Armani.