The trench coat today is perhaps the ultimate symbol of style. A timeless design that is regarded as a must-have wardrobe staple for both men and women. Each fashion week season, the trench coat is reinvented; you’d be lucky to open Instagram without seeing your favourite influencer or celebrity styling the latest iteration. Not that I ever mind, as I say, they are a style staple for a reason, and one that I will never tire of seeing. Yet, what many don’t know is that this is a far cry from how the trench started its life.
The origins of the trench coat actually date back as early as the 1820s. In 1823, Charles Macintosh created the first rubberised raincoat – dubbed the “Mackintosh”. The coats, while completely waterproof, were heavy and impractical. They sweated heavily from the inside and could literally melt in the sun. By 1853, two years after creating his luxury tailoring house Aquascutumn, John Emary designed a much-improved version out of water-repellent wool fabric. Then came Thomas Burberry, who was a young draper at the time; he emulated Emary’s achievement and in 1879 Burberry invented an innovative fabric called ‘gabardine’ that was tightly woven, breathable, and weather-resistant.
By World War 1 in 1914, the British War Office commissioned Burberry and Aquascutum to adapt these raincoats into functional military gear that would replace the traditional gatecoats that were too heavy, too warm, and frankly, too much of a liability during the war. Better protection was needed, and so, using gabardine, Burberry created coats that were designed to endure the elements during trench combat – hence the name. These coats were designed for breathability, to allow for fluid movement, and be adaptable in the muddy trenches.
Each of the iconic features that are still used on trench coats today were designed to be entirely functional. Epaulettes were used to display military ranks, D-rings allowed officers to clip on equipment and maps, and the adjustable cuff straps could cinch tight to prevent water running down the arms. The belted waist ensured the cold and wind stayed out, whilst the knee-cut length was short enough to not trail in mud, yet still covered a significant portion of the body. Extra layers of fabric were added to the chest and back to keep rain from seeping in, and the buttons on the neck helped to protect the wearer from poisonous gas.
Before World War 1, military uniforms were brightly coloured, often British red or French blue that made it easy for commanders to identify their infantry in battle. Due to technological advancements with long-range arms, these uniforms became deadly – the bright colours making soldiers easy targets. The uniforms needed to adapt with beige and khaki now preferred as they allowed soldiers to blend into the landscape – hence the iconic trench colourways.
Once the war was over, and the military personnel returned home, the trench coat made a seamless transition into civilian life. Unlike other military garments, it did not need to be softened, and its functionality adapted easily into everyday dress. Because the officers who wore them were traditionally upper-class, trench coats quickly became a status of sophistication, turning into a badge of rank and status, which only aided its popularity.
Fast forward to the ‘40s and ‘50s, the golden age of Hollywood, and the first time a trench coat was seen on the silver screen. It was then seen as an icon of mystery in film noir movies like Casablanca and Laura, which saw leading actors play powerful figures such as detectives, spies, and gangsters. Audrey Hepburn, ever the style icon, wore one in Breakfast at Tiffany’s in 1961, transitioning the trench away from gritty crime movies into high-society romance.
Today, the trench coat continues to function as a reference point for Burberry. It has undergone various adaptations over the years – shorter lengths, embellished details, bolder colours. Yet its fundamentals have always remained consistent. You know what you’re getting when you invest in a trench coat, and perhaps that is why it remains the ultimate wardrobe staple.
The history of the Burberry trench coat is further explored at the latest fashion exhibition at the V&A in London – The Burberry Trench: Crafting an Icon.