Fashion month continues this week in Milan. After standout Spring/Summer 2027 shows in New York and London, it is now time for Italian houses to showcase their latest collections. This week brings back fashion heavyweights including Gucci, Armani, Prada, and Roberto Cavalli, while Glenn Martens presents his final collection as Creative Director at Diesel. Here are some of the best collections emerging from Milan Fashion Week SS27 so far.

Giorgio Armani

​Courtesy of Giorgio Armani

‘Style is a way of being, rather than an immutable code: the ability to change while remaining true to oneself,’ said the Armani show notes. ‘Identity, too, can evolve without losing its essence. These are the founding principles of the Armani language.’ For Spring/Summer 2027, the collection is an evolution that Silvana Armani carries forward for Armani. Fabrics blur the boundaries between day and evening, and menswear-inspired jackets feature elongated, fluid shapes.  The essential colour palette consisted of soft beige, ivory, and gold, with black also featuring prominently – colours that allow structure, texture, and movement to emerge. 80s Armani characteristics, including sharp shoulders, rhythmic geometries, and metallic glimmers, were present, while tailoring was styled with loafers that are instantly recognisable as Armani.

Bottega Veneta

​Courtesy of Bottega Veneta

Bottega Veneta SS27 inhabits the movement of Spring imitating Summer. The moment where layers begin to melt away, leaving space for air and lightness. The collection opens with coats, sharp shoulders, and hints of knitwear before the softness of summer seen through sheer, handmade fabrics, pastel shades, and floral motifs. Fringed skirts that appeared to move alongside the body perfectly captured the freeing feeling of entering a new season. Nature was further celebrated in accessories, through bags woven in raw raffia, macrame leather sun hats, and earrings that looked as though they had been shaped from clay.

Dolce & Gabbana

​Courtesy of Dolce & Gabbana

For SS27, Dolce & Gabbana dig into Sicily’s heritage with a collection titled Stravaganza Siciliana. The result is a new character within the Dolce & Gabbana family: informed by inheritance, shaped by instinct, and animated by individuality. The houses’ maximalist aesthetic was in full swing with mix matched styling and loud floral and animal prints. Texture was also a focal point of the collection, from delicate lace to silk blouses and open knits. Low-rise denim jeans that were ripped at the knee and styled with a pussybow blouse took the spotlight with coral-esque embellishments. Another pair of denim shorts were trimmed with lace. Grandmother jackets, embroidered linen, and statement jewellery comprised much of the collection – pieces that would fit right into any Sicilian home.

Ferragamo

​Courtesy of Ferragamo

For Spring-Summer 2027, Maximilian Davis continues to explore the stories of liberation told by 20th-century wardrobes, with a particular focus on the 1940s, when women entered the workforce. “It was a period where clothing, and its structure, created a certain posture and propriety: when the placement of pockets would dictate how you would both stand and behave,” explains Davis. “I wanted to take elements of that silhouette and modernise it for today.”

High-waisted tailoring is cut close to the body; military pockets are affixed to pencil skirts and outerwear, and trench coats flare at the hem. Translucent rubber dresses, leather shirting and ties rendered in glossy python allude to fetishism. Davis’ signature draping was presented through ethereal looped silks, leather trains and sequinned gowns. Surrealism recurs throughout the collection in tonal textures and dreamlike prints. For footwear, the sculptural silhouette of the F wedge inspires the curved heel of stilettoes, and satin mules are decorated with Art Deco-inflected jewellery.

Gucci

​Courtesy of Gucci

The Store Show is the first collection that expresses Demna’s personal vision for Gucci, and is shaped by everything he’s learnt since his arrival. The show space was designed to look like a Gucci store, previewing his aesthetic for future stores. The collection itself represents the personalities of Demna’s Gucci: The Rebellious Aristocrat, The Snob, and The Eccentric. The lineup begins with menswear: cropped trousers and loafers worn without socks and sharp, fitted tailoring with pagoda shoulders in stonewashed textiles. For womenswear, bourgeois dress codes tinged with an equestrian sensibility give way to tailored pant and skirt suits. Furthering the House’s equestrian identity, oversized and miniature Horsebits punctuate the collection, including the 3X cummerbund belt. There’s delicate lingerie, voluminous shearling coats and precisely cut, fluid eveningwear to end the collection.

Tod’s

​Courtesy of Tod’s

The Tod’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection is a celebration of Italian attitude. An instinctive inclination to recognise beauty and draw inspiration from life’s simple pleasures – a sensibility that translates into a timeless and understated style. Leather is crafted using expert techniques by Tod’s highly skilled artisans, which enhances its quality. The colour palette consists of natural tones with burnt hues and accents of saffron yellow, red and horizon blue mixed in. The trench coat takes centre stage in perforated leather, nappa, and a fabric called Windsilk that is a combination of silk and nylon. The biker jacket, appearing in soft calfskin and leather, adds edge to the collection. The iconic Gommino loafer is reimagined through new constructions and craftsmanship techniques. The new sneaker-ballerina interprets its signature codes through a sporty, flexible, and lightweight touch.

QIFEI

​Courtesy of QIFEI

QIFEI’s Spring/Summer 2027 collection at Galleria Meravigli brings together Chinese Gen-Z memory, everyday sensation and the contrasting rhythms of contemporary city life. The opening looks were restrained in black and white, with Chinese ink-inspired references and layered materials including silk, linen, cotton, acetate and cupro. As the show progressed, tailoring, prints and colour became more pronounced, following the movement from an inward world towards the city. A surprising inspiration for the collection came from MALAKING, a spicy Chinese snack representing taste, familiarity, youth and shared memory in the collection. The finale look was a highlight, requiring 800 hours of entirely handcrafted work and was part of six limited edition looks created exclusively for Milan Fashion Week.

Alberta Ferretti

​Courtesy of Alberta Ferretti

Alberta Ferretti SS27 collection  by Lorenzo Serafini was titled ‘Échappée belle: a beautiful escape.’ It is inspired by a world suspended between dream and reality,  touched by a distant sense of exoticism, by the freedom of another time, by the languid elegance of those who seem to move through life according to their own rhythm. In this world, summer is already a memory, lingering on the skin in a colour palette of ivory, black, lilac, pistachio and powder pink, with saturated colours of blue, teal, rust and mustard yellow that appear faded by the sun.  Floral prints dissolve into liquid and flow over fabrics that slip through hands. There is a strong influence from the 1920s in the collection. Seen in slip dresses, lingerie details, and kimono jackets. Prints are mixed, evoking Matisse’s celebrated work.

Roberto Cavalli

​Courtesy of Roberto Cavalli

Fausto Puglisi looks to the Roberto Cavalli archive for Spring/Summer 2027, taking the house’s love of prints and making them contemporary. The collection is the house at its best. Each look is reminiscent of 2000s Cavalli, the kinds of pieces we all scour vintage shops to find, yet reimagined for 2027. Denim is joyful – on jeans that are customized, cut, destroyed, and reassembled before being finished with a 3D trompe l’oeil print and appliqué. An accumulation of prints is the focus of the collection, each one layering on top of each other. From leopard, tiger, tattoo, ray skin, and floral – clashing designs that shouldn’t work together but somehow do. Footwear takes influence from the 90s with the jewel sabots and the house’s classic snake.

Emporio Armani

​Courtesy of Emporio Armani

Emporio Armani, designed by Silvana Armani and Leo Dell’Orc, draws on time, especially how it shapes new materials, giving meaning to fluid silhouettes, precise jackets, and liquid tailoring. This season, both women’s and menswear are defined by lightness. Seen through linen, weightless silks, shirting fabrics, viscose, and jersey. Jackets are without structure, trousers are airy, and knitwear recalls the same intimacy as underwear. Salt crystals, that both preserve and corrode, serve as both treatment and embroidery throughout the collection. Other fabrications also bear a mark endowed with depth and memory – seersucker is hollowed and crumpled, laser-treated velvet becomes mottled, and acid washes uses a cold dyeing technique that creates irregular colour effects.

MM6 Maison Margiela

​Courtesy of MM6 Maison Margiela

For Spring/Summer 2027, MM6 questions the unwritten rules of fashion and what happens when familiar items are worn differently. For womenswear, garments move around the body. Shirts become skirts with shoulder lines sitting at the hips. V-neck tops are worn as bottoms and skirts become dresses. For menswear, shirts, collars and button plackets shift from the centre towards the side of the body. Yet the wardrobe itself remains straightforward and utilitarian: tailored suits, biker jackets, shirts, T-shirts, trousers. Construction has been simplified with reduced closures and snaps, easy fabrications and shrunken proportions to make getting dressed a breeze. This same questioning is replicated in accessories, with gloves becoming bags and shoes with five toes. The collection provides several new ways of dressing, with the wearer deciding where items belong.