After an already jam-packed fashion month, Paris Fashion Week is finally here for the French maisons’ turn to showcase their latest collection for Spring/Summer 2027. Matières Fécales opened the season on September 28 with a collection inspired by the designer’s upbringing. Followed by Paris Fashion Week heavyweights Dior and Saint Laurent. This season will mark one year since Jonathan Anderson presented his first collection for Dior, while it is rumoured that this will be Anthony Vaccarello’s last at Saint Laurent. The rest of the season will also see new collections from beloved brands including Chanel, Tom Ford, Givenchy, Loewe, Schiaparelli and Mugler. Here are some of the best collections emerging from Paris Fashion Week SS27 so far.
Louis Vuitton
Courtesy of Louis Vuitton
At Louis Vuitton, Nicolas Ghesquière moves away from the extravagant, sculptural silhouettes we saw for FW26 and instead focuses on a collection of softer, more fluid shapes. Chiffons, carré silks, and scarf fabrics in silk and cashmere are used throughout in a way that resembles a second skin. Not in appearance, but in sensation and function. There were references to 90s minimalism through slip dresses and effortless tailoring. The ‘20s were also present with feather-like motifs, ruffles, and dropped waists. Many of the designs seemed futuristic, yet the ease of the fabrications very much points to a wearer of today, one who is required to navigate the pressures of a busy city life.
Zimmermann
Courtesy of Zimmermann
Zimmermann brought its signature feminine, bohemian spirit to Paris Fashion Week for SS27. Taking inspiration from the resilience of the butterfly, this collection explores softness and fragility by looking to 19th-century scientific illustrations by Harriet and Helena Scott. The opening look started the collection off strong, with appliqued butterflies and petals across a gilded bodice. Fluid silhouettes and intricate craftsmanship follows the rest of the collection, expressed within a colour palette of white, yellow, blue, lilac and pink. Prints include botanical illustrations on chiffon dresses, and softened drill, lace, liquid silk and denim are brought together through drapes, layered textures and precise detailing.
Alaïa
Courtesy of Alaïa
SS27 marks the first collection for Alaïa after Peter Mulier left the house earlier this year. While we are yet to hear an announcement of his successor, the reins of this collection instead fall to Alaïa’s studio team. We saw familiar codes in leather skirts, sleek black jackets and knitted pleats. Alaïa continues to celebrate the way clothes accentuate the natural shape of a woman’s body with ruffle-trimmed dresses that fit like a glove. A deep colour palette of burgundy, black, olive green, and navy was complemented with hints of butter yellow and fuschia. This was a collection that felt laid-back but still undeniably Alaïa.
Elie Saab
Courtesy of Elie Saab
If there is one collection I would like to wear until the end of time it would be this. Inspired by Jean Harlow’s effortless allure and drawing on the maison’s passion for timeless glamour, Elie Saab SS27 is designed for a woman who wears her heart on her sleeve. This feeling of old Hollywood glamour was present in liquid gowns that skim the body with intimacy, told through trailing linings, lace trims and asymmetric hems. Feminine, sensual layering is key to the collection, with easy slip-on, slip-off pieces. Soft femininity is further explored in a colour palette of sage green, powder blue and blush, with floral embroidery detailing lingerie-influenced gowns in black lace or pale pink silk.
Victoria Beckham
Courtesy of Victoria Beckham
Victoria Beckham’s SS27 collection takes its inspiration from the 1920s, particularly the forward-thinking dancers of the time who rejected the restrictions of classical ballet in favour of a freer relationship with the body. Seen through long, lean silhouettes on camisoles and sheer viscose georgette dresses with wavy, asymmetric lines, ball-beaded hems, and cut-outs. Prints of hand-painted flowers and kissing birds adorn dresses, while others are printed with extracts of the coloured background textures of 1920s portraiture and held together by bows. Long and short cut trench coats, that are constructed in super-light technical fabrics with a sporty sensibility, are evocative of the classic grammar of haute couture. Beckham’s signature suiting is tailored to look sharp, while feeling entirely unrestrictive through skinny blazers and drainpipe trousers.
Givenchy
Courtesy of Givenchy
For SS27, Sarah Burton wanted balance and clarity for Givenchy. A wardrobe that brought precision and simplicity to dressing as we move through the multiple perspectives and perpetual motion of our lives. Looks included coats, trousers and dresses that challenged proportions. Straight-leg jeans paired with peplum-hem jackets or a tank with surprising cut-outs. Striped shirts, micro shorts, colourful leathers and fluid tailoring made up much of the daywear, while for the evening, beaded gowns completed with fringed hems complimented the body. Burton continues to design clothes that empower women while still feeling entirely wearable.
Loewe
Courtesy of Loewe
For Loewe SS27, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez combined the relaxed American dressing of their youth with Spanish drama and history. The result is a collection that is intuitive, immediate, and real. A sporty, preppy aesthetic is seen throughout a lot of the pieces, in polo shirts, check blazers, striped shirts, and playful colour blocking. Detachable collars feature on knitwear, trench coats are 3D-printed and moulded in resin, and slip dresses and skirts are woven with glass beads. As for accessories, the iconic Puzzle bag evolves into a featherlight East-West shape, named Puzzle Charm, and the new Pasito bag drapes a supple nappa dustbag over a classic box construction.
Schiaparelli
Courtesy of Schiaparelli
Daniel Roseberry returned to the runway for Schiaparelli SS27 with a collection built around distillation. By taking the core components of Schiaparelli couture and translating them into pieces for ready-to-wear, this collection is designed to be separated to give the freedom of styling to the wearer. Signature Schiaparelli silhouettes, gowns, and necklines are reimagined as tops and bottoms that can stand on their own. And to make the pieces even more fluid, a colour palette of black, bone and butter forms the bulk of the collection, with only a few pops of colour throughout. The classic Schiap jacket is reimagined in kingfisher blue, moss green, and salmon pink with embroidery that honours the maison’s devotion to craftsmanship. The result is a modular collection that is wearable without sacrificing the glamorous codes of the house we all know and love.
Chloé
Courtesy of Chloé
Chloé by Chemena Kamali was once again filled with everything we love most about the brand: feminine touches, bohemian details, and lots of lace. It felt like a love letter from Chemena to Chloé, filled with everything the designer is obsessed with in the house. Chloé’ archetypes were explored, including ‘robes de jeunes filles’ from the early days, made from broderie anglaise, which, for this collection, were referenced through organza and cotton. The ‘Noel’ suit from 1972 was reimagined with scalloped edges. Floral embroidery from the 1960s were used to create depth, texture and complexity, while traces of lace lingerie added a touch of romance. 1970s silhouettes are explored in the form of fishermen’s coats and capes that are layered underneath transparent vinyl that hints to the rainwear of the ‘50s.
Acne Studios
Courtesy of Acne Studios
For Spring/Summer 2027, Jonny Johansson for Acne Studios modernises historical garments. Britches are reinterpreted as capris in butter yellow leather, pea coats are cropped, and smock silhouettes are marked by high collars. Brocade features heavily, faded on draped skirts and styled with polo knits. Denim is lacquered with flowers or ripped, bearing a resemblance to a torn Renaissance painting. Models walk against a backdrop where traditional carpets by artist Faig Ahmed appear to melt, to a cinematic soundtrack of Prince Charming from Adam and the Ants that only helps to set the New Romantics narrative.
Courrèges
Courtesy of Courrèges
Courrèges SS27 celebrates the freedom to wear what makes you happy. It marked Drew Henry’s first collection as creative director, and it’s clear the designer looked to Courrèges’ futuristic archives for inspiration. The iconic Courrèges white-heeled boots from 1964 were revamped in shades of bright orange, green and vermilion. The house’s signature snap fastenings were reworked on accessories from handbags to shoes. Joyful dressing was a clear theme throughout this collection; bright colours were mixed in a way that well and truly says goodbye to minimalism while voluminous silhouettes and mix-matched proportions help to bring fun back to fashion.
Maison Margiela
Courtesy of Maison Margiela
Maison Margiela SS27 studies the concept of ‘hard and soft ’-elements that are essential in the design and construction of garments. Shown literally in the setting of the show, designed by floral artist Mark Colle, which saw models walking on a runway of herringbone parquet before a wall of flowers. But also, of course, in the clothing. Hardened panels are added to trench coats and tailored jackets, and waistcoats are turned in on themselves, concealing buttons. Draped dresses, wrapped skirts and cotton panels help to soften the collection.
Saint Laurent
Courtesy of Saint Laurent
In case you weren’t sure, gold is the key takeaway from Anthony Vaccarello’s latest Saint Laurent collection. Whether pale gold, Art Deco gold, burnished gold, or matte gold, almost every look was imagined in the colour. This colour scheme pays homage to Monsieur Saint Laurent himself, who called it magical. Yet Vaccarello explored it through his signature repetition, delving into how gold can transform everything it touches. Iconic archetypes of the Saint Laurent wardrobe – sahariennes, trenches, blouses, wrap skirts, strong shoulders were all enveloped in a shade reminiscent of liquid gold, which was only amplified through fabrics of lame, organza, guipure lace and mousseline. The show closed with a series of all-black evening gowns designed to be impulsive and spirited in freedom. If the rumours are true that Anthony Vaccarello is leaving the house after ten years, then this is a remarkable way to go out – the golden age of Saint Laurent reimagined for the present.
Dior
Courtesy of Dior
The Dior Summer 2027 Women’s Collection by Jonathan Anderson is a study of lightness. Elements of the Autumn/Winter 2026-2027 Collection return in new ways – from flower-like shapes and volumes to iridescence and cropped silhouettes. Long scarves are worn draped over the shoulder and cascading earrings are weighed with gemstones. There’s sheer suiting, metallic pants and an embroidered black trompe l’oeil scarf motif taken from the Men’s summer 27 collection too. Accessories were prominent throughout the collection with new versions of the Dior Double and Dior Initial Hobo in compact shapes and a new, biker-inspired bag with zipped pocket flaps, cannage stitching and metal D-I-O-R hardware. Playful mesh bags can be customised with fringed silk scarves or clusters of sheer georgette petals while photographs of flowers are printed onto square-toe block heels.
Matières Fécales
Courtesy of Matières Fécales
Opening the Paris Fashion Week SS27 season, Matières Fécales creative director Raj Bhaskaran described this new collection as “not just a collection; it’s my life story.” Titled ‘The Ninety-Nine Percent ’, the collection features ninety-nine models of colour wearing looks designed by a designer of colour to empower those most vulnerable: the marginalised. The story of the collection unfolds in three acts. The first, ‘FAMILY ’, was inspired by Bhaskaran’s mother, Grace, with drapé looks embodying her loving nature and her endless strength to walk through life’s difficulties. All-white looks in Matières Fécales signature silhouettes open the show and draw a parallel to the purity of Bhaskaran’s religious upbringing. Followed by black, red and blue silhouettes including flowy micro-pleated chiffon floor-length skirts paired with headscarves and thawb-inspired cotton dress shirts. The next section, ‘TRIBE,’ features military tweed sets, decaying lamb leather capes, and unravelled khaki knits – an homage to Bhaskaran’s time in Montreal’s underground punk scene. To conclude, the show ‘GODS’ features couture looks that represent hope during tough times. There’s a déchiré skirt suit made entirely with cotton and woven by hand, and hand-embroidered draped sarees. The finale looks embody the defiance and strength of the marginalized within the ninety-nine percent. Models carry life-like billionaire figures on their backs that are reminiscent of Matières Fécales FW26. One thing is for certain: this is a collection that serves as a reminder that fashion is never just about clothes; it has meaning.
Read more Fashion Week coverage here.