The Mithridate AW25 collection marks the debut of creative director Daniel Fletcher, setting the stage for a new era in the brand’s evolution. This collection is a meeting of worlds—where British heritage seamlessly intertwines with Chinese craftsmanship, creating a dialogue between past traditions and contemporary sensibilities.

The Inspiration

Fletcher draws inspiration from the complexity of British fashion history, rejecting singular stereotypes in favor of a multifaceted reality. Inspired by the storied traditions of English dress, the collection reimagines classic tailoring and layering with a fresh perspective. It takes cues from romantic, adventurous, and eccentric British characters, evoking the spirit of a Richard Curtis screenplay with its nostalgic yet modern aesthetic. The collection also addresses the idea of bad taste in placing the Eighties and the Noughties at the center of the mood board, challenging the decades’ influence and legacy.

The Collection

Mithridate AW25 is a celebration of contrasts—saccharine shades meet deep navy and rich tan leathers, while full skirts are juxtaposed with sharp-shouldered tailoring. Traditional techniques, from hand-tied knots to intricate bead embellishments, are applied in unexpected ways, reinforcing the collection’s artisanal roots.

Each ensemble is crafted with storytelling in mind, merging classic and contemporary elements to reflect a dynamic, evolving wardrobe. A tailored coat is draped over a drop-waist ball gown, evoking images of Cambridge’s early morning summer ball departures. Elsewhere, a ladylike silhouette is modernized with a wool zip-up hoodie, reflecting a lifestyle that blends elegance with practicality. There’s also a strong presence of texture, where fluffy knits, luxurious leathers, and detailed embellishments lend depth and intrigue to each piece.

Outerwear is designed with Britain’s unpredictable climate in mind. Corduroy blazers exude academic charm, Harrington jackets offer a laid-back refinement, and sailor-inspired coats feature delicate blanket stitch detailing. Knitwear and shirting are adorned with new Mithridate motifs and emblems, while silk scarves and printed ties pay homage to British music’s legendary raconteurs.

The Best Looks

This debut collection under Fletcher’s direction signals a new chapter for Mithridate—one that honors tradition while fearlessly reinterpreting it for the modern age. Nostalgic yet forward-thinking, it is a testament to the brand’s evolving identity, proving that heritage and innovation can coexist in perfect harmony.

Among the standout looks, the collection’s preppy styles shine. This is best seen in the colour palette that places awkward, sickly pastels alongside preppy hues. Jumpers tied over the shoulder, styled with boxer shorts and cardigans add to the aesthetic that I am sure we will all be replicating come Autumn.

The FROW

The show was attended by Vanessa Williams, Nicola Roberts, Matt Henry, Amalie Gassmann, and Maisie Peters.